Cartier Cartier held a ‘Dialogue’ watchmaker media sharing meeting in Shanghai, and invited Mr. Sebastien Mathez, the director of Cartier’s fine watchmaking workshop and Geneva’s premium imprint watches workshop, who visited China for the first time. I will show you the complicated movement technology and tell the brand’s unremitting history and strong technical strength in the field of watchmaking.
Sebastien Mathez, Director of Cartier’s Fine Watchmaking and Geneva Premium Imprint Watch Workshop
Since the first waist-link watch was sold in 1874, Cartier has created countless models with different designs and complicated functions. It has witnessed the brand’s accomplishments in aesthetic design and technology, and also shows Cartier’s past 100 years. For more than 60 years, a glorious journey of innovation and innovation. In 1904, Cartier introduced the first truly modern watch, the Santos. This watch, designed to be worn on the wrist, declared the era of watches. In 1912, Cartier’s first mysterious clock was born. With its hands suspended in the air, it was hailed as a ‘miracle in the history of watches and clocks.’ Born in 1917, the Cartier Tank watch, the avant-garde style broke the rules of the round dial, creating a new era of square watches. Fine watchmaking occupies an important position in the history of Cartier’s creation, showing a rich diversity and valuable continuity. Today’s Cartier Haute Horlogerie series highlights the rich heritage of the brand since the beginning of the twentieth century, as well as the style exploration and evolution leading the era.
In order to better explain Cartier’s long watchmaking history and top-notch production techniques, this media sharing session will show the brand’s strong watchmaking strength in the way of ‘dialogue’ watchmaking master-Mr. Sebastien Mathez. The four generations of Mr. Mathez’s family are watchmakers. He joined Cartier in 2001 and was responsible for integrating complex function movements, such as tourbillons, perpetual calendars, three questions, etc. In 2003, he was appointed head of Cartier’s after-sales service. Since 2009, he has also served as the complication watch manager, the head of after-sales service and the production director of the Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal of Quality) at the Cartier La Chaux-de-Fonds workshop. Since 2012 he has been in charge of Cartier’s Antique Restoration Workshop. In 2013, he was appointed Director of Cartier’s Fine Watchmaking and Geneva Premium Imprint Watch Workshop.
La Chaux-de-Fonds Watch Workshop
Since its establishment, Cartier is known for its sophisticated watchmaking skills, and its timepieces have all shown extraordinary craftsmanship and outstanding artistic accomplishments. In the 1970s, Cartier acquired some watchmaking factories in La Chaux-de-Fonds and entered the heart of Swiss watchmaking.
Cartier La Chaux-de-Fonds Watch Workshop
Cartier currently has a total of six watch workshops in Switzerland. The watch workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds was completed in 2000, integrating many of the watchmaking units that the brand was scattered in at that time. This watch workshop covering an area of over 30,000 square meters is the center of Cartier timepiece design and production. It has the most advanced technology and equipment, and is also one of the largest fully integrated watch workshops in Switzerland. The workshop brought together more than 1,200 skilled artisans from 37 countries, covering 175 watchmaking skills, belonging to the movement research and development, watch production, quality control and customer service departments, and the repair department. As one of the few watch workshops that can completely design, produce and repair its own watches and movements, it represents the perfect fusion of high technology and craftsmanship.
In order to establish and strengthen communication between various departments, the Cartier La Chaux-de-Font watch workshop first launched the ‘Made in Cartier’ program in 2005 to ensure that each timepiece work can be used in all stages of design and development. Get input from different professional departments. In 2007, the ‘THINK TANK’ plan, based on the concept of ‘the same team, the same place’, brings together all the processes required to manufacture a watch or movement, and manages them by district. This innovative mode of time and space management facilitates the sharing of various handicrafts, quickly transforms design concepts into works, and puts Cartier Watch Workshop among the few with the ability to produce all watches or movement parts (including the case , Straps, hands, mirrors, plywood, bridges, etc.).
The master watchmaker at the Cartier Watchmaking Studio (l’ espace Production) assembled hundreds of parts by hand and then carefully adjusted them.
Cartier’s watchmaking studio (l’espace Production) is like a concert hall, and the master watchmakers are ‘conductors of small orchestras’, assembling hundreds of parts by hand, and then carefully adjusting, Into a moving piece of music. At all stages of watch development, all components are thoroughly tested to ensure compliance with their functional standards, durability standards and applicable standards from an ergonomic point of view. During the research and development process, the watch needs to undergo nearly 150 different identification tests and inspection steps, so as to evaluate each part of the watch and the overall coordinated operation of the watch.
At La Chaux-de-Font’s watch workshop, Cartier has always had a comprehensive in-house training course, because each movement has its own special requirements and requires a lot of training outside the standard courses of watchmaking schools. While relentlessly pursuing innovation, Cartier is also actively guarding traditional arts and ancient watchmaking techniques, and inheriting the watchmaking tradition through internal training and process integration. Founded by Cartier Watch Workshop, the Institute Horlogerie Cartier offers trainees new skills training to ensure that Swiss watchmaking technology can be promoted in the future.
POINÇON DE GENÈVE Workshop
In 2008, Cartier Ballon Bleu de Cartier floating tourbillon 9452 MC calibre was awarded the ‘Poinçon de Genève’ certification for the first time. To date, Cartier has 43 watches engraved with the mark. Successfully ranked among the very few watch brands that have been awarded the ‘Poinçon de Genève’, reflecting Cartier’s values of watchmaking heritage, adherence to stringent requirements, and the pursuit of excellence.
The “Geneva Seal of Quality” has a long history. It was first established in 1886 through the Geneva Laws. Since then, it has been revised and improved several times. It has consistently adhered to two key principles: the movement exclusively produced in Geneva. Watches are inspected by an independent testing agency. Today, the “Geneva Seal of Quality” is awarded by the Geneva Watchmaking and Micro-Engineering Laboratory (also known as the Time Lab) to highlight the outstanding functions and aesthetics of watches that honor this mark. Watch design), timekeeping (accuracy) and other standards, and assembled, adjusted and cased in Geneva can receive this award. Therefore, it is not only a proof of origin, but also a guarantee of high quality. For many years, the ‘Geneva Quality Seal’ has only been used as the certification mark of the movement. However, its latest regulatory changes have extended the certification requirements to the entire watch, covering comprehensive functional standards and the entire case.
Cartier 9452 MC calibre, awarded ‘Geneva Quality Seal
In order to obtain the ‘Imprint of Geneva Quality’, the Cartier Watch Workshop presented certified movements with exquisite movements: the chamfers of the main splint and bridge were polished and the sides were brushed. The screw head must be polished, and the screw grooves and corners must be chamfered … In addition, the watch must pass the most stringent precision performance test: in the seven-day observation, the travel time error can not exceed 1 minute. The ‘Geneva Seal of Quality’ is the hallmark of Cartier Workshop’s refined movement, and it is also a symbol of the beauty of its content. The Cartier ‘Geneva Seal of Quality’ watch workshop is the guarantee of the brand’s watch’s outstanding performance, exquisite decoration and extraordinary quality.
Since the 19th century, Cartier has continued to write new chapters in the history of watchmaking, creating legends with extraordinary works. Each unique Cartier watch proves that a complex function is not only a mere crystallization of technology, but also a carrier that perfectly integrates function and beauty. As always, the Cartier Watch Workshop continues to interpret the rules of watchmaking and break the rules to produce unparalleled classics that have won excellence and exclusive certification marks.
Movement R & D and Fine Watchmaking
In the Cartier La Chateaux watch workshop, a 35-person movement research and development team and a 60-person watch design team have been set up to ensure that from the initial idea to the final formation, it is possible to create a machine entirely designed and developed by the brand. Core and watch. In 2009 and 2012, Cartier launched the first life-long concept watch without adjustment ID One and the first high-performance concept watch ID Two, which opened up an unprecedented new direction for mechanical watches.
Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire Perpetual Calendar Watch, Cartier 9459 MC workshop refined movement, engraved with ‘Geneva Quality Seal’
In 2009, Cartier’s first self-winding mechanical movement, 1904 MC, was born, which reflects the brand’s innovative spirit and ambition in the development of self-made movements, and also provides more possibilities for Cartier watch creation . From Calibre de Cartier watches to Tank MC watches, the 1904 MC movement is gradually becoming the backbone of Cartier watch movements. With its creativity, precision and innovation, the Cartier Watch Workshop is constantly exploring a new territory, challenging extreme excellence. Since the launch of the new Haute Horlogerie series in 2008, Cartier has developed 25 self-made Haute Horlogerie movements in just 6 years, 9 of which are even more honored by the Geneva premium mark representing the quality of top-level watches, showing the brand’s Increasing strength in the field of watchmaking.
Rotonde de Cartier dual mystery tourbillon watch showcases Cartier watchmaking
Some of the most striking examples of Cartier’s fine watchmaking collections include the 2011 Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur celestial constant center of gravity device watch, the 2012 Rotonde de Cartier floating tourbillon minute repeater watch, and the 2013 Rotonde The de Cartier dual mysterious tourbillon watch and the latest Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch launched in 2014, show Cartier’s high level of accomplishment in the field of movement creation, and also reflect Cartier’s uniqueness for advanced complex functions opinion.