Recently, I went to A. Lange & Söhne’s specialty store. Although the large light box in the store is still the Lange January phase, but there are watches It was sold, so despite going many times, I haven’t seen the current list. When this watch was launched at the beginning of the year, we actually expected it, because it was Lange 1 first, and new moon phases second. Lange 1’s status in Lange is just like Calatrava’s for PP. If you buy only one Lange, Lange 1 should be the first choice. The Lange moon phase is a beautiful choice that surpasses the conventional Lange 1 but does not need to cost as much as a complicated Lange 1 watch, not to mention that this year is a new moon phase.
There are three new Lange January phase models this year, rose gold case white plate style, platinum case white plate style, and white gold case black plate style. What I want to say with you today is the white gold case with black dial. Honestly, this is my favorite of the three, because the rose gold case is very age, experience and skin color. In terms of personal aesthetics, the white plate is more appealing to me without a black plate, so to put it all together, I prefer this black plate with a platinum case.
The reason why Lange 1 is a classic representative of Lange is because the first four watches of the Lange brand during the revival had one Lange 1, and this kind of disk design is only the most beautiful. It follows a very rigorous proportional distribution. The center of the eccentric hour dial, the center of the small second dial, and the center of the large calendar form an isosceles triangle, which is close to the equilateral side. In a circular dial, it is difficult to arrange the dial elements according to such a proportion, because the dial layout is often more difficult due to the movement design.
Then this year’s new Lange 1 moon phase watch, compared with Lange’s original Lange 1 moon phase, the difference is that the day and night display function is added, and it is displayed together with the moon phase. The key to achieving this function is that Lange has modified the structure of the moon phase display. The traditional moon phase disk is fixed with two ‘moon’ and starry sky disks. This time the starry sky disk is a starry sky disk and is displayed in hours and minutes. The gears are connected through a speed-controlled wheel, and the ‘Moon’ is a separate moon, which is not fixed on the star plate, and is still connected to the original moon phase display gear train. With two different speeds, two functions are realized in one area.
We know that Lange’s practice is to insist that all cases are made of precious metals. To be honest, this should be the most advanced method and the most traditional method in modern watchmaking brands. This tradition is not derogatory, because in history, the real top watchmaking brands are basically made of precious metal. Only in this way can the elegance, value and dignity of the product be reflected, and it can be accepted by the high society. Steel is usually used in trial watches (sample tables), or made on special requirements, and rarely used in mass production. So Lange insisted on making the case with precious metals, and from this point, it expressed its brand value.
Another interesting point of Lange is that although there are many models of Lange, as far as the case is concerned, it is very easy to identify. It is a three-layer case, the middle layer is brushed and polished, the upper and lower layers are polished, and from the side Look, although it is a round watch, it has a good three-dimensional effect and a vertical cross-section. Unlike many brands, the side of the brand also makes the arc of the facade, even narrower on the top and bottom. This embodies the rigorous feeling of Lange’s watchmaking, the principle, the circle in the square, and it is also very aesthetically worthy of appreciation.
As the large calendar itself is a complex function, it is displayed by a combination of a ten-digit dial and a single-digit dial, and it needs to be delicately controlled. At the beginning of the month, the situation such as ’00’ does not appear. This is exactly the Lange large calendar. What’s interesting. Due to the complicated structure, Lange designed a large calendar adjustment button separately, which can quickly adjust the large calendar. At 7 o’clock, a hidden adjustment button is designed to precisely adjust the moon phase. This is also the charm of the official Lange watch. Although the structure is complex, the tuning is very easy and simple, and it has a built-in safety system. In appearance, it has a balanced aesthetic.
The watch comes with a crocodile leather strap with an 18K white gold pin buckle.
Looking over the watch, Lange’s charming movement is presented in front of him. The case size of this watch is the classic 38.5 mm, and the movement size reaches 30.6 mm. Such a full visual impact, for men That is a kind of satisfaction. 3/4 German silver splint, polished diamond pattern, very beautiful, and has the traditional elements of Lange’s representative: Lange screws, gold sleeves, gooseneck trimming, hand-carved balance wheel splint, mirror polished escapement clip Film and so on. These are so poisonous to men that they are so beautiful.
Lange’s meticulous attention to detail is one of the reasons we appreciate it so much. Ever since Lange started to make his own balance with hairsprings, indeed, more and more models have begun to use Lange’s own hairsprings and weight balances.
Summary: We admit that although watchmaking is a difficult task, high-end watches are indeed in the minority. So how to choose a real high-end watch depends on whether its details have its own personality. Lange’s details are individual, from the decoration of the movement, the design version to the dial layout, the use of traditional elements and micro-innovation, we can feel the kind of heritage beauty it expresses.