Basel 2019: A New Record Bvlgari Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra-thin Timing Gmt

BVLGARI Bulgari’s history of making ultra-thin watches is not long. In 2014, they began to launch the brand’s first Octo Finissimo ultra-thin tourbillon. At that time, it rewritten the record of the thinnest bracelet tourbillon. After that, the brand successively rewritten the record of the thinnest three questions, the thinnest automatic winding and the thinnest automatic tourbillon in 2016, 2017 and 2018, and the enthusiasm for the research and development of super watches by Bulgari in 2019 remains the same. The new work released is Octo Finissimo’s ultra-thin timing GMT, which has dual complex functions, but the case is less than 7mm, and once again writes the brand’s fifth ultra-thin record.

The Octo Finissimo chronograph GMT self-winding watch is the fifth new ultra-thin watch record created by Bulgari. This time, the brand has expanded its functions to a chronograph and two time displays. The thickness of the case is still only 6.9mm. Disdain for homogeneity

Octo Finissimo’s ultra-thin chronograph GMT uses a titanium case. At the same time, the surface has been sandblasted by the brand in recent years. The special touch and visual experience have spread from the case to the chain. In fact, it is not just ultra-thin. This multi-faceted appearance is already a big challenge in terms of processing. However, Octo is, after all, a Bulgari’s signature work. The technical difficulties have been overcome long ago, but every time I see its characteristic appearance, Still can’t help but wonder a little.

The small dial at three o’clock on the face plate shows the time in two places, and the wearer can quickly adjust it by pressing the knob at nine o’clock.

Minute dial at 6 o’clock, small seconds dial at 9 o’clock, gray face plate echoes inside and outside of the sandblasted titanium metal case

I just saw the dial on my hand will react intuitively. This is a chronograph, including a small seconds dial at nine o’clock and a thirty minute counter at six o’clock, but pay special attention to the small dial at three o’clock. Its 24 The hour scale is not a chronograph, but a relatively rare chronograph with two time display functions. Since the scale itself has 24 hours, it does not need to set an additional day and night display. You can see the numbers directly on the small dial directly. Home time is day or night. In addition to the timing knob on the right side of the case, Bvlgari has also thoughtfully set a quick adjustment knob on the left side of the case-the purpose is to adjust the home time, which is convenient for the wearer to set the time when going abroad.

The thickness of the BVL 318 automatic movement is 3.3mm. As for the overall thickness of the watch, it is only 6.9mm, which successfully continues the Bulgari ultra-thin record.

The watch is equipped with the brand’s newly designed BVL 318 automatic movement. The key to its thinness is still related to the ring-shaped automatic disk. Generally, the automatic three-needle movement can be controlled to a thickness of 3mm is a standard format for thin watches. However, this movement also includes the timekeeping function and the time function of the two places. The thickness of the entire movement is only 3.3mm. The surprising thing is that among the five Bulgari works that broke the ultra-thin record, 3.3mm The thickness is relatively thick. The overall thickness of this movement after it is placed in the case is 6.9mm. Although it is the thickest member of the Bvlgari ultra-thin family, it has a watch with the same level of function in the watch altar. It’s still a flock of birds. To add that, the movement has a power reserve of 55 hours, and it is more than enough with an automatic winding mechanism. It can only be said that the rising star of the ultra-thin world of Bulgari is really expected, and where are their limits? I don’t know.

Octo Finissimo Slim Timing GMT

Titanium material / BVL 318 self-winding movement / hour, minute, small seconds display / chronograph function / dual time display / sapphire crystal, transparent bottom cover / waterproof 30 meters / diameter 42mm / reference price: about 122,000 RMB

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The Perfect Fusion Of Aesthetics And Craftsmanship

For the origin of the hollow movement, there is no clear traceability because there is no clear definition. Some people think that the earliest 15th century clock designs-opening the window to reveal the internal structure, is the art of hollow Predecessor. The Gothic clock, which appeared in the sixteenth century, is also regarded as the beginning of hollowed-out art. This clock is based on an open iron frame structure, which allows you to see the important components and the core components at a glance. According to more stringent standards, the timepiece should actually be a pocket watch or a wristwatch, and the classic splint and bridge must be hollowed out and decorated to meet the conditions of hollowed-out works.
   In 1760, French watchmakers Lafin and Caron competed to create the first hollowed-out wristwatches. Their works used hollow-carved engraved movement splints to make the gears that kept turning clearly visible. The barrel was also hollowed out. The beautiful movement of the mainspring is shown, while the slim triangle balance plate makes the internal structure subtle. When contacting this trend of fashion, Mr. Baodi did not indulge in his novel decoration, but extended to the functions, precision and practicality of timepieces. This is exactly in line with the brand spirit of Breguet. It pursues the ultimate beauty while emphasizing the real value of timepieces. Modern Breguet skeleton timepieces continue to inherit the excellence of the watchmaking tradition and continue the important role of aesthetics in skeleton design, but Breguet movement designers have gone further and made the skeleton parts under the impact by careful analysis and research. Still maintains good performance. Thanks to careful and meticulous computer simulation, Breguet skeletonized watches are not only showing charming art, but also outstanding performance.
   The process of carefully crafting splints and bridges by hand reflects Breguet’s sincerity in the art of hollowing out. Not only that, in order to get the perfect skeleton watch masterpiece, polishing multiple procedures is essential. The main splint, the bridge and the clockwork box cover are processed by hand “brushing” to exquisite checkered patterns, and then polished with a hand file and wooden tools to make the chamfer smooth and flat. When dealing with complex high-end watches, various delicate decorative patterns need to be carved on its surface to embellish its beautiful appearance. Finally, the watchmaker can finish the basic operations of the hollow parts by carefully brushing the surface. No matter what kind of decoration process, it takes countless man-hours to complete. And the assembly of the movement and the main barrel is an important procedure to test the experience and patience of the watchmaker. If there is a slight deviation, the movement cannot be installed and operated accurately. The hand-hollowed timepiece has a unique status in the watchmaking world. Breguet watchmakers have created many exquisite and ultra-precise timepieces with many years of experience and high artistic accomplishment, conveying Breguet’s elegant low-key, implicit and restrained style of.
Complex machinery, charming and harmonious

Breguet Classicique Grande Complication 3355 Platinum Perspective Watch

   The Breguet Classicique Grande Complication 3355 platinum watch with tourbillon. The watch is equipped with a hand-wound movement and silver-plated 18K gold dial with dial dial and half-moon seconds hand-engraved with Breguet’s unique engraved pattern, which highlights its elegant elegance. The small second hand is directly mounted on the tourbillon shaft. The balance spring is equipped with a Breguet hairspring. The internal hollow parts of the watch are numerous. Through the sapphire crystal caseback, Breguet’s complex machinery and delicate structure are at a glance. The nature of the atmosphere.

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar

   Breguet watches always tell the passage of time in the most exquisite and elegant way. Its invisible dial creates a subtle skeleton model, showing the complex structure of the movement like a perspective view. The 3795 watch can be regarded as a true ‘high-order customization’ in the field of micromechanics. Its bridge has a lace effect engraving, which exquisitely demonstrates superb craftsmanship. Breguet has added a third layer creatively. The hour and minute hands scales are displayed in front. This setting is easier to read time, and at the same time other information on the dial can be seen at a glance. This watch cleverly achieves these functions by mounting an eccentric sapphire disc on a flexible bracket. The non-transparent Roman numeral hour-marker scale circle, combined with the Breguet blue-steel hands with a hollow ‘moon-shaped’ needle point, can clearly and quickly display the time. Below the sapphire disc is a dial with Paris studs and a semicircle retrograde calendar display. The one-minute tourbillon at six o’clock is cleverly combined with the hour sign circle. The bridge is still beautifully chamfered, and a small three-pin second hand is set on the shaft. Through the sapphire crystal case back, you can see the inner world of the watch. The transparent design makes the tourbillon jump in front of you. Breguet watchmakers’ sophisticated retouching skills give new life to the sculptural decoration, and the meticulous carving also seems to be writing the rhythm of rotation for the tourbillon dance.
Elegant and unique, refined and restrained

 Breguet Classicique Grande Complication 5335
   The Breguet Classicique Grande Complication 5335 watch is driven by a manual winding movement and a neatly arranged tourbillon design adds a unique temperament to the charming personality of the watch. The elegant and beautiful design of the watch section is rich in watchmaking technology, and the curved vortex plywood and rod make it appear unexpectedly. Through the sapphire crystal, the exquisite skeleton movement of the watch is clear at a glance, and multiple sets of components are closely combined. The overall effect is elegant and harmonious, moving quietly in the space, with the dance steps of the tourbillon repeatedly rotating. A neat row of parts has been carefully polished, cut, engraved, and trimmed with balanced texture.

Breguet Classicique Chronograph 5284 skeleton chronograph

    In 2013, Breguet once again collaborated with Only Watch, a large-scale international charity project launched by the Association of Monaco Gastric Constriction Les Myopathies, to create a unique watch. Breguet’s classic series Classique Chronograph 5284 hollow chronograph table. This model continues Breguet’s tradition of fine and elegant watchmaking, and is equipped with a superb manual winding movement, Calibre533.2 SQ. It is worth mentioning that this column-wheel chronograph movement has been adopted by world-renowned watch brands for a long period of time to create its most luxurious and top-end watch series. Made of 18K yellow gold, the outer edge of the case is elegantly engraved, reminiscent of the classic design of Breguet’s first watch. The elegant Breguet blue-steel hands further complement and reveal the purely manual retouching process. Through the sapphire crystal case back, the unique elegance and gorgeousness of the chronograph movement can be seen, exquisite and perfect, unparalleled.
Delicate and elegant

Breguet Classicique 5238 skeleton chronograph

   Among Breguet’s many hollow timepieces, the classic series Classique 5238 skeleton chronograph is one of the more special ones. In addition to continuing the elegant design of the Breguet style, this skeleton timepiece for women is just as beautiful Combined with superb craftsmanship. The center of the main dial is set with a small seconds dial and a 30-minute accumulation timer, which are symmetrically placed at the three o’clock and nine o’clock positions of the dial, adding a touch of uniqueness to the model. It is worth mentioning that the dial outer ring, lugs and crown are paved with 96 baguette diamonds, weighing about 13 carats, which undoubtedly reveals the elegance of women. Through the watch’s main dial, delicate and complicated hollow parts are layered on top of each other, working together in perfect harmony. The carefully carved patterns on the surface of the main plywood are ingenious. Fits the gentle temperament of female customers.

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Bai Yingze In-depth Analysis Of The Three Major Phenomena In Basel In 2014

During the 2014 Basel Watch Show, in addition to the massive new product information reports, the Watch House also interviewed many veterans in the industry, including the famous watch culture scholar Bai Yingze and the teacher Bai It will give us an in-depth analysis of the three major phenomena in this exhibition in his eyes.

Watch House: Can Teacher Bai simply summarize your feelings for the next edition of the watch exhibition?

Bai Yingze: This Basel watch exhibition can be briefly summarized in three words. The first is ‘problems’, the second is ‘decorative trends’, and the last is ‘unclear future.’ Although there are many watches worth watching every year for the exhibition, this year there is not so much in the number of this category. This is a problem in the exhibition, which also echoes the current SIHH On a phenomenon.

 Also talk about the ‘decorative trend’ just mentioned. In the 2014 SIHH, which was recently concluded, major brands including Cartier and Piaget boldly combined various artistic styles and forms to present multi-directional decorative watches including sculpture, mosaic, and silk. At this year’s Basel Clock & Watch Fair, we can also see the shadow of carving art everywhere, like Blancpain’s art articles on the pendulum, and 6002 known as the watch king, all of which are covered with Up carving. From this we also see a trend of decoration in this year’s watch exhibition, but to say that from the technical aspect, or if a watch has undergone a huge innovation or change this year, I don’t think it is so outstanding.

Watch House: Do you think that watchmaking technology has reached an era of bottlenecks? Do we still need to improve our technology?

Bai Yingze: As far as I am concerned, technology is like poetry and poetry in Chinese culture. After hundreds of years or even thousands of years, there is not much room for improvement in technology. But why is anyone crazy about it? This is the charm of creativity. For watches and clocks, its movement may not be too numerous and gorgeous, and even some independent watchmakers’ movements are formed after grinding on the basis of other movements, but it is the extraordinary use of the square surface Creativity. Someone may always trace the movement to the source when looking at the watch, to see what structure it is, whether it is self-produced, but as myself. I have always been the representative of the Appearance Association. An attractive timepiece. The first thing to do is to design the surface, and then to dig deeper into it.

 In summary, I think the concentrated creativity of watches is reflected on the dial, but compared to previous years, I have seen fewer such watches at Baselworld this year. As far as I know, the most attractive and greatest watch in the world must have two genes, one is the heritage of tradition, and the other is the innovation based on tradition.

Watch House: The high-frequency watch like TAG Heuer is also a subversion of the chronograph function. What do you think?

Bai Yingze: For this I just express my personal point of view, this high-frequency chronograph watch can only be said to be a concept watch. I personally pay more attention to some styles suitable for daily wear. If we, as a watchmaker, recommend it to everyone, we must first consider those watches that everyone can wear.

Watch House: Which watch do you think can meet the impressive and subversive requirements you mentioned earlier?

Bai Yingze: I haven’t encountered such a style yet, but before thinking of a brand like MBF, they can definitely use the word crazy. In addition, some brands will directly put sesame seeds on the surface of the disk, or the reverse of the movement, which has impressed me in recent years.

Watch House: Then your overall feeling is that this year, in the decorative arts of watches, the brand’s performance is still good?

Bai Yingze: Like some mid-end brands, they may not have tried many designs before, but in recent years they have also found their own feelings and have done well. For example, Amy’s brand is positioned as a mid-end brand, and it will have a bright feeling on new products this year. Including the previous years, the square gear watch has also been completely reinterpreted this year.

 In addition, the example of a high-end brand is like Girard Perregaux. This brand has disappointed everyone in the past few years. Although it is a very beefy brand, it seems that there is no outbreak. But at this year’s Basel Watch Show I saw the return of the brand. For example, this year’s three-axis tourbillon and constant escapement watches are foreshadowing a return of brand strength. Although many Chinese are not particularly interested in this watch, those who really understand it will like it more and more. From the time Girard Perregaux released this watch to winning the GPHG, I was really convinced by its mechanical charm again and again. In addition, Girard Perregaux’s women’s watch this year is also very outstanding. If we can better integrate products and publicity, we will definitely welcome a wave belonging to Girard Perregaux in China.

Watch House: Can you finally explain what you just said ‘the future is uncertain’?

Bai Yingze: There must have been a lot of people at big brands like in previous years, but this year there are indeed fewer, and the number of brands concerned by independent watchmaking brands has continued to increase. There is also a topic that everyone is paying attention to recently, which is the contest between mechanical watchmaking and current high-tech watches. Many people used to believe that mechanical watchmaking would not be replaced, but in the current form, I think anything can happen.

 The above is the 2014 Basel watch related information carefully prepared by the staff in front of the Watch House. In the future, we will continue to provide more and more intuitive exhibition reports for everyone, please pay attention to it.

2014 Basel Watch Show Special Website:

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